The Ultimate Guide to Tequila - Mexico’s National Spirit

For nearly two thousand years, agave was fermented to create alcohol. However, it wasn’t until the 1600s that fermented agave was distilled for the first time.

All Tequila is Mezcal, but not all Mezcal is Tequila!

Tequila is one of several alcoholic beverages made from agave, also known as the maguey plant. For the early inhabitants of Mexico, agave was an amazing resource. It was not only a source of the sap used to produce pulque, the original agave spirit of North America. Agave leaves were used to make rope and paper. Dry leaves, especially those of some of the larger species, were a good source of firewood. Thorns from the leaves were used as needles--they even came with their own thread! Careful removal of a thorn would leave a long fiber attached. Thorns were also used in tattooing, with the ink coming from burned agave leaves. 

Pulque dates back to AD 200. It is a milky white, foaming, bitter beverage. (Think of it as a New World kombucha.) It is produced by cutting the stalk of a mature agave before it flowers. Then, the sap that pools in the depression is collected and fermented.

Celebrations and Sacrifices

The use of pulque varied by cast and occasion. A great source of protein and probiotics, it was available for pregnant women, the ill, and the aged. Pulque was also important in celebrations and sacrifices. Both priests and sacrificial victims drank pulque, giving the priests courage and easing the victims' pain.

After the arrival of the Spanish in the late 1500s, pulque increased in popularity as a food supplement during times of food scarcity.

However, the landed Spanish were distrustful of the spirit. They considered it crude compared to the wines they imported from the Old World. The use of intoxicants for celebrations was antithetical to their Catholic faith. Plus, they felt it was a threat to their political power.

Were distillation methods developed locally or imported by the Spanish? History is a bit fuzzy here. Either way, pulque use declined. And mezcal, a distilled agave spirit from Southern Mexico, rose into prominence.

The Rise of Mezcal

The Aztecs used intoxicants to solidify control over their populace. The Spanish, on the other hand, censured them. They considered the central role of pulque in native religious and public celebrations offensive.

Mezcal’s road to acceptance began in the early 1600s. That’s when Pedro Sánchez de Tagle, Second Marquis of Altamira and Knight of the Order of Calatrava, started distilling. This was close to the town of Tequila, near Guadalajara.

At the time, Spanish wine was in trouble. King Charles II of Spain decreed that the colonies, including Mexico, were not allowed to develop new vineyards. So de Tagle turned to agave. He called his agave spirit “wine of mezcal.” Agave was cheap to cultivate, the area around Tequila was undeveloped, and soon business was booming.

As consumption shifted to mezcal, Spain taxed it heavily to protect Spanish wine imports. But even with the added costs, the “wines of mezcal” found favor, not just with the populace but also with the elite.

The wine produced by de Tagle and others gained a reputation. Gradually “wine” was dropped from the label, and “de Tequila” was added, making mezcal produced in the Tequila region “Mezcal de Tequila.”

In 1893 the “Mezcal de” was dropped. Since then, Tequila has continued to evolve beyond shots. It has become a liquor to sip.

What’s in a name ~ Tequila vs. Mezcal vs. Agave Spirits

You can call them all agave spirits. But if they come from Mexico, they are mezcal. And if they come from one of the five designated tequila-producing regions in Mexico, you get to put “tequila” on your label.

The five regions – Jalisco, Tamaulipas, Guanajuato, Nayarit, and Michoacan, produce very different tequilas. Each is a Denomination of Origin. (This is an EU designation created to protect geographically specific food products that are dependent on specific environmental aspects. Here are a few familiar examples. Scotch can only come from Scotland, Havarti is from Denmark, and Champagne is from the Champagne region of France.)

The Regions

Like wine regions, the tequila regions vary in soil and climate. And like grapes, agave reflects these differences with taste and complexity. The understanding of the interplay between geography and tequila is still in its infancy, though. Below is what we know so far about each of tequila’s unique regions.

Jalisco

Jalisco, which includes the town of Tequila, is the most productive of the five regions and is responsible for over 99% of tequila made. It has a tropical savanna climate. That means it is dry year-round, with less than 40 inches of precipitation a year and minimal temperature variations.

Tequila Agave in Distillery - waiting for processing in Tequila Factory in Jalisco

Tamaulipas

The only agave grown in Tamaulipas is unique due to its high elevation and coastal location. Chinaco Distillery had to fight to get Tamaulipas included as a tequila-producing region. Around 1983, its spirits were the first premium tequila made with 100 percent agave to be sold in the U.S. Before the 1980s, most tequilas was a mix of sugar and agave, rather than the 100 percent agave we are used to seeing now.

Guanajuato

Corralejo is the best-known tequila distillery from the Guanajuato region. It is famous for its Tequila Añejo 99,000 Horas - named for the number of hours it takes to make tequila, from young agave to bottle.

The climate there is a semi-arid monsoon, with most of the precipitation occurring between June and September. There are two prominent soil types. One is phaeozem, which can support intensive agriculture. The other is vertisols, a brown-reddish soil prone to high salinization and erosion.

Nayarit

Nayarit is an area of coastal lowlands with an active volcano, Ceboruco, that last erupted between 1870 and 1875. It is typically warm and wet, with the coastline having an inviting tropical climate. AMAN Tequila from Nayarit is now distributed worldwide.

Michoacan

Even more volcanic than Nayarit (there are eighty volcanos in the state), Michoacan also has a climate and topology that varies widely. The coastal regions are tropical, while the central area is mild, and the highlands are known to freeze. The area is known more for its avocados than its tequila, but that is slowly changing. 

Michoacan produces both tequila and mezcal. Eight distilleries there are making inroads in the global tequila market. They include Tequila Hacienda Sahuayo, which produces cristalino añejo tequila.

Agave Spirits - United States

In the U.S., agave spirits are becoming popular with craft distillers. Like corn whiskey, agave spirits can be produced and sold with limited or no aging. This allows for a faster mash-to-market timetable.

The Source - Agave tequilana - Weber Blue Variety

Tequila is not just defined by where the agave is grown and distilled but by the type of agave used.

The scientific name Agave tequilana belongs to an agave native to the states of Jalisco, Colima, Nayarit, and Aguascalientes. Sometimes referred to as agave Azul or “tequila agave,” it is a spikey blue-green succulent that prefers rich sandy soil and elevations between 2,600 and 7,200 ft (790 to 2,200 m.).

Agave is grown both in the valleys and highlands, and like grapes, influences of the different climates can be noticeable.

Highland agaves are grown in nutrient-dense soil and cooler temperatures. They grow larger here, with higher sugar content and more complexity. This creates a sweeter tequila with soft agave notes. Valley-grown agave produces a peppery, spicy, and earthy tequila.

Agave is harvested near the end of its lifecycle before it can bloom. Different sub-species of Agave tequilana mature at different times. This can be as quick as five years, but an average of 7 - 14 is more common. “Weber Azul” or the Weber Blue Variety is the most common. It grows rapidly and produces pups (or offsets — a daughter plant produced asexually) that can be removed and raised. This makes it unnecessary to allow any plants to flower and produce seeds.

Cultivating and Distilling Agave

Cultivating agave is a labor-intensive job done in much the same way for the last half-century. The techniques are passed down generation to generation by the jimadores, the men who plant, tend, and harvest the agave. Harvesting is an art. An agave harvested before it is ripe won’t have enough starch to be turned into alcohol. 

Once an agave finishes its lifecycle, it dies. The jimadores prevent the plants from ripening by removing the flower stalk, which resembles an asparagus spear with yellow flowers before it can bloom. This focuses starch into the agave’s heart, the piña.

Fun Fact: Piñas average 110 lbs., and it takes more than 11 lbs. to make a bottle of Tequila..

Once ripe, the piña is harvested by removing the leaves. Only the sugar-rich center remains, and it is baked slowly. The heat breaks down the complex sugars into simple fructose. The baked piña is then manually broken down by a stone wheel called a "tahona". Juice for fermenting is wrung from the piña pulp. The fibrous leftover pulp is called bagazo. It is removed and composted or used as animal feed. Occasionally, small amounts of the bagazo are added to the fermentation process to create a more flavorful spirit. By law, all tequila is distilled twice.

100% de Agave vs. Mixto

On most of the tequila bottles at your neighborhood liquor store, you will see the words 100 percent agave--and it means exactly what it says. The distilled spirit is made of agave piña with no additional sugar sources, flavors, or coloring agents.

Occasionally, you may come across a tequila labeled mixto--again, precisely what it sounds like. Mixto is a mix of agave and other sugar sources (like cane and corn). But just like bourbon and corn, the magic number is 51 percent. In other words, a mixto-labeled spirit can’t be just anything. Fifty-one percent or more of its mash bill has to be agave. Bottles may also be labeled “made from (or with) blue agave.”

To Age or Not to Age

Like bourbon and scotch distillers, tequila distillers are also bound by the legal definition of their spirits. But within those definitions, there is room to play. Compared to bourbons and scotches, tequilas trend toward the young. In fact, unaged Tequila has its adherents. And the oldest tequila class is only required to be aged three years.

The Five Classes of Tequila and a New Upstart

Like the U.S., Mexico has legal standards for tequila. These are set by the Normas Oficiales Mexicanas and promoted by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila. Mexico requires that all tequila be bottled between 70 - 110 proof with specifics delineated by class. There are five classes of tequila divided by age.

Fun Fact: Tequila sold in the U.S. must be bottled at a minimum of 80 proof.

Tequila Blanco: aka Plata, Silver, or White

The clear tequilas you see on the shelf are unaged and have no additives to alter their color. These are the Blancos, sometimes labeled silver or white. Purists often consider Blanco to be the best of the five classes because it holds the essence of pure blue agave.

Flavor Profile: A clear and crisp, agave-forward tequila. Expect citrus and pepper notes and a spicy finish.

Tequila Joven: aka Gold

Joven also referred to as tequila gold, suave, avocado, or ora, comes in two forms.

One is an unaged tequila with colorants and flavoring added to give the golden hue and mellow the flavor. Additives may include glycerin or sugar, caramel coloring, holm or holm oak extracts. This can be 100 percent agave or a mixto.

The other version of Tequila Joven is a Blanco blended with a Reposado, Añejo, or Extra Añejo, which gives it color without additives.

Flavor Profile: Similar to the Blanco profile with hints of vanilla and oak from the added aged spirit.

Tequila Reposado: aka Rested or Aged

To have the label “Reposado,” the tequila must be aged in wood for at least two months, but not more than twelve. Unlike bourbon, the barrel type is not specified. But American or French Oak is most common.

Barrel aging alters tequila in several ways. The resins and tannins from the different barrels are responsible for the subtle changes in flavor and nose that distinguish different brands. And the interaction between the alcohol and carboxylic acid, a process called esterification, produces esters that improve the mouthfeel of the spirit.

Flavor Profile: Smoother than Blanco or Joven, primary notes include oak, vanilla, and caramel. Secondary notes vary but may include chocolate, chiles, and cinnamon. 

Tequila Añejo: aka Extra Aged or Vintage

Añejo tequilas are aged at least one year and must be aged or rested in oak barrels with the capacity of 600 liters. The most common time frame is between one and three years.

Rather than new oak, used oak casks are typical. Popular choices are American bourbon and cognac barrels. In general, Añejos tend to be more complex, smoother, and darker in color than Reposados.

Flavor Profile: Often described as richer, with notes of vanilla and cinnamon. Due to differences in aging time and barrels, this is one of the best to sip. Sipping will allow you to experience the complexities of the nose, how it tastes on the palate, and the finish.

Tequila Extra Añejo: aka Ultra Aged

Extra Añejo is the new (old) kid on the block. It was accepted as a class of tequila on October 28, 2005, by the Norma Oficial Mexicana. 

Tequila Extra Añejo is aged at least three years in direct contact with the wood of oak (holm or holm oak, or Encino Oak barrels with a max capacity of 600 liters). Like Tequila Añejo, the ABV or proof can only be adjusted by adding water.

Flavor Profile: Like Añejo, differences in barrels and aging make each bottle unique. The more time in the barrel, the farther it moves away from the base flavor of blue agave. These tequilas rely more on flavors from their barrels than their agave base.

The Upstart — Tequila Cristalino

This is not an official category; however, it is unofficially acknowledged. Tequila Cristalino is an Añejo or Extra Añejo with its color removed either by activated carbon and a cellulose filter or by re-distilling. The added step makes it more expensive to produce. It is also problematic since activated carbon or re-distilling can remove the flavor profile gained in the aging.

Flavor Profile: The process enhances the citrus and fruit notes and gives an added crispness to the agave. The best distillers also preserve the caramel and vanilla flavors imparted by the oak barrels.

Experiencing Tequila

There are as many ways to drink tequila as there are tequila drinkers. Most famous is the cliche tequila cruda method. Sometimes referred to as “training wheels,” it’s a shot of tequila with lime and salt, but the order is argued about. Salt, sip, lime, or salt, lime, sip?

Sips and Shots

Aficionados argue for whiskey glasses, rocks glasses, or snifters, which allow the aroma to pool in the glass. Whiskey glasses and snifters allow air to interact with the spirit and concentrate it in the bowl of the glass. Others prefer a more diffuse experience and use a rocks glass which allows for more airflow and less accumulation in the glass. 

Others search for authenticity and opt for Caballito glasses—literally, “little horse” in Spanish. This is one of the most traditional ways tequila is served. The tall, slender shot glasses are often made of heavy handblown glass and work well for either sipping or throwing back a shot. They are also commonly used for Bandera, a Mexican tradition in which three shots are lined up in Caballitos in the color order of the Mexican flag - Lime Juice (green), Tequila Blanco (white), and Sangrita (Red). Another variant is to order Tequila and Sangrita and then alternate them.

Tequila and Sangrita

Looking for a new Tequila experience? Check out our “Best Sipping Tequilas.”

The Classic Margarita — Frozen or on the Rocks?

Even if you haven’t done shots or sipped an Añejo, you’ve probably had a Margarita. They are everywhere. There are many conflicting stories regarding its creation, but it probably evolved from The Daisy, a classic cocktail that mixed spirits, citrus, and grenadine served over shaved ice. Margarita means

“daisy” in Spanish, so this assumption seems the most plausible. Someone made a Daisy with tequila, and the Margarita was born.

The Margarita evolved from a cocktail made with tequila, orange liqueur, lime, and a splash of soda to the one we see today. With its trademark glass and salted rim, it is generally a 2:1:1 mix of tequila, orange liqueur, and lime juice served either on the rocks or blended with ice.

The Tequila Express

Beginning in 1997, as tequila was rising in popularity, the Guadalajara Chamber of Commerce decided to open up a train service for Tequila. Now dubbed The Jose Cuervo Express, the train runs from Guadalajara and Jalisco and offers sunrise and sunset itineraries. They include mariachi music, agave fields, harvesting demonstrations, and distillery tours. There’s also a time in the town of Tequila, and of course, lots and lots of tequila to taste.

Final Notes

No one can deny tequila is on the rise. Consumption is up 30 percent between 2015 and 2020. Diversity is going up too. Extra Añejo and Cristalino have joined the recognized classes and U.S. Craft distillers are getting into the market. The variety of agave-based spirits is staggering. Distillers are also playing around with different finishes. These include sherry, red wine, and even Speyside scotch barrels.

How and when it is imbibed has rapidly changed. The one-time get-quick-party-shot is now on a level of sophisticated drinking that rivals bourbon and scotch.

What is your experience? Did you spend a Spring Break doing shots with salt and lime? Or were you introduced to a slightly smoky barrel-aged Añejo or a crisp Blanco?

Whatever your experience, drop us a line and tell us your story.

~ Cheers!