Peerless Distillery Review

Corky Taylor’s great-great-grandfather founded the first Peerless distillery in 1889. Today, Taylor and his son Carson have revived the family tradition. And from those roots, they are growing the business in some unusual directions.

The first Peerless distillery closed during Prohibition. The new one opened in 2015 and with one of the most unusual and educational marketing strategies we’ve heard of.

The 7-Bottle Sepiesi Collection

It is nearly impossible to find the Sepiesi Collection for sale, but the concept is worth mentioning. In honor of the first bourbon bottled in 98 years under the Peerless name, they released a masterclass in barrel aging. It took place over the course of five years, from the un-aged bourbon through the spirit’s journey to premium Kentucky Bourbon. And each of the seven bottles is a moment frozen in time.

Like Farm to Table, but Grain to Bottle.

Peerless is one of a growing number of distillers in the “grain to bottle” movement. They mill their grains, cook, ferment, distill (twice), and barrel their spirits on-site. It all happens under the control of master distiller Caleb Kilburn, a Kentucky native. Even their barrels are sourced with care. They come from Kelvin Cooperage, a local company just south of the distillery. Kelvin hand-chars their barrels with wood, rather than the more common charring method which uses natural gas. It is a more time-consuming process, but it eliminates any concerns that artificial flavors could make it into the bourbon.

Peerless Bourbons are always made with sweet mash. They’re also distilled without chill-filtration, and bottled at barrel strength. The sweet mash method differs from the more common sour mash process, which works like a sourdough starter. It is a low-maintenance process that, like a starter, comes with the added benefit of killing off unwanted bacteria. The sweet mash process provides more constancy and control of the final product. Contamination can be an issue, though. So the mash must be strictly monitored, requiring specialized equipment.

2020’s Best Kentucky Bourbon

Peerless is winning awards for its Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Peerless’ Small Batch Kentucky Straight Bourbon was “Best Kentucky Bourbon” at the World Whiskies Awards 2020. Wine Enthusiast rated it 92 points, making it one of its Top 100 Spirits in 2021.

Sweet mash and no-chill filtration is an unlikely pairing. And at 109.5 Proof, Peerless Kentucky Straight Bourbon stands out from the crowded shelves at your local liquor store. Reviews include:

“….The palate opens with ribbons of toffee sweetness intertwined with clove, cardamom, and black pepper. Adding water amps up the spice, layering on cinnamon and cayenne heat.” ~ Kara Newman @ Wine Enthusiast

“…a relatively young small batch bourbon that can literally go toe to toe with products double its age or created by much more tenured legacy distilleries.” ~ Nick @ Breaking Bourbon

Single Barrel, Small Batch, and Barrel Proof Rye Whiskey

Rye is where Peerless started, and it’s still one of the most respected offerings. Their Straight Rye Whiskeys come in both small batch and single barrel bottlings. There is even a place to look up the serial number of your bottle. Then, you can get Caleb Kilburn’s tasting notes and other minutiae related to the history of the specific barrel or batch.

Flaviar notes that Peerless Rye is “adored for its spicy, grassy, cinnamon, and pepper flavor notes” and smooth finish.

Josh Peters @ The Whiskey Jug praises the “simple, clean, and aromatic” nose of the Barrel Proof Rye Whiskey, noting “It’s fruity like you’d expect young rye to be, but it’s also clean and light which is not something you’d expect from a rye that clocks in at 108 proof”…even if the nose is “a tad yeasty.”

Jake Emen @ Distiller likes the 2017 release for its bright spearmint opening and long finish which   “takes a surprisingly sweet and rich turn, with resonating vanilla toffee and crème brûlée, backed by pepper, oak, and spice, elevating this dram from a good whiskey to an irresistible one."

An Edge Of Your Seat Rye, Barrel Finished in Absinthe Barrels

As one reviewer said, “Sometimes whisky drinking is about the experience.” In the case of Peerless’ Rye barrel finished in absinthe barrels, the big seller is a novelty.

From their tasting notes:

“Sharp and powerful, bursting with warm spices and herbal notes. From star anise, licorice, and Sazeracs to caramel and oak, this whiskey boldly showcases elements from both spirits while remaining grounded in its whiskey roots.” ~ Peerless Distilling, Co.

The barrels come from Copper & Kings. They’re another Kentucky company and one of the few absinthe distillers in the world who barrel finish their spirit.

The reviews are mixed. Some find the absinthe overwhelming, while others taste a balance between the absinthe and rye.

“Absinthe is by far the dominant flavor in this whiskey. The rye is there and goes quite well with the absinthe, but it is in the background. If you enjoy Sazerac cocktails and licorice sticks, then you’ll probably love this.” ~ Gus @ Bourbon Obsessed

“Bold and divisive, Peerless took the gamble (again) finishing a rye in absinthe casks, and the result is a whiskey that resembles its finishing agent more than its base whiskey.” ~ Eric @ Breaking Bourbon

“The new whiskey is sharp and powerful, bursting with warm spices and herbal notes. The palate is rich and reminiscent of the Peerless rye character, with the added element of fresh, herbal notes and a longer finish.” ~ George Koutsakis @ Forbes

Final Notes:

Peerless Distilling Co. is a distillery to watch, grounded in its storied history, and yet willing to take risks and embrace new and fringe distilling methods. They’re already known for their sweet mash and foregoing chill-filtration. And they’ve gambled on everything from rye whiskeys barrel finished in absinthe to a cinnamon-mocha single barrel bourbon. So we will definitely keep an eye on Peerless and their fearless master distiller. Who knows what they will try next?

Want to learn more about what makes a bourbon a bourbon? Check out our Guide to Bourbon and How Does the Mash Bill Affect the Flavor of Bourbon? articles. If you have a question, or a distillery you’d like to know more about, drop us a line in the comments.

Cheers!